Ikat

Hello everyone,

Ikat

Today I am going to discuss about Ikat. In other resist dyeing techniques in first woven and then is dyed but in Ikat the yarns are dyed first and then is weaved.

The fabric design is created in yarns rather than the cloth. In Ikat both the fabric faces are patterned. Ikat is charaterised with a blurry design. Well the bluriness can be reduced by using finer threads even by the skill  of the craftman. It is mainly done in India, Central Asia, Southeast Asia, Japan, Africa and Latin America.

Indonesian language word Ikat can be said to mean a cord, thread, knot or to bind or tie. There are mainly 4 types of Ikat:

• Warp Ikat
• Weft Ikat
• Double Ikat
• Oshima Ikat

Warp Ikat

In this method only the warp threads are dyed. Fabrics used: cotton, silk and wool. South American and Indonesian Ikat is known for its highly warp alignment.

Warp Ikat

Warp Ikat

Process

• Yarns are wound onto a frame.
• Then they are tied in the burdens ( can be covered with wax)
• Then the yarns are tied tightly with thread.
• Then the process is repeated to achieve the wanted colours
• Then the dyes yarns are send to the loom to get weaved.

Weft Ikat

It is more difficult to do. In this techniue the weft  threads are dyed and then woven. Japanese weavers produce very accurate indigo and white weft Ikat with small scale motifs. Whereas, in Odisha, India have replicated fine urdu script in weft ikat.

Weft Ikat

Double Ikat

In this technique both the weft and warp yarns are dyed. It is very difficult and hence expensive. It is mainly done in India and Indonesia. In this mainly done in India and Indonesia. Before the final weaving is done. Before the final weaving is done a manual winding is supposed to be done. It takes atleast 5 hrs per saree. In 1999, Malluham made a machine which does manual winding.

Double Ikat

Oshima Ikat

 In this type of Ikat both warp and weft ikat threads are used as warp to weave stiff fabric upon which the  thread for Ikat is spot dyed. The Oshima ikat process is duplicated by Java and Bali, and is reserved for the ruling royalty.

Oshima Ikat

References:

Ikat (2017) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikat (Accessed: 15 January 2017).

Hoffman, A. (2012) The history of Ikat. Available at: http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/warped-the-story-behind-ikat-r-105283 (Accessed: 16 January 2017).

Inc, S. (2017) IKAT PPT.Pptx | weaving | textiles. Available at: https://www.scribd.com/presentation/285871007/IKAT-PPT-pptx (Accessed: 16 January 2017).

Shibori

Hello everyone,

Today I will discuss about Shibori which is one of the most popular tie and dyes.

Shibori is a Japanese tie and dye technique whose traces can be found from the 8th century.In the 20th century it got popular. Before it was done on hemp and is now done on cotton. It is mostly dyed in indigo colour. Shibori has a soft or blurry edged pattern. In ancient time Shibori was an art of poor, because they could'nt afford expensive fabric, they decided to make them by your own.

There are various types of tie and dyeing technique in Shibori.

• Kanoko Shibori:  It is the most popular technique of shibori. In this technique we bind certain section of a cloth by inserting a bead inside it and then tying the cloth around it. The tighter the knot will be the more it will resist the dye.

  

  Kanoko Shibori

• Miura Shibori: In this kind of dyeing technique loop binding takes place. The same part of cloth is looped twice to resist the dye.

  

  Miura Shibori

• Kumo Shibori: It is a pleated and bound resist. Some sections of the cloths are pleated and is bound really closely and finely.

  

  Kumo Shibori

• Nui Shibori: In this technique the section of clothes are sewed with a running stitch and then the thread is pulled tightly and then knotted. Those the fabric gives better shading and different patterns.
  

• Arashi Shibori: In this dyeing technique the cloth is wrapped or twisted diagonally and with the help of a thread some of its sections are wrapped. It results in diagonal patterns which also said to look like a heavy storm. Arashi Shibori is also called pole wrapping Shibori.
  

Itajime Shibori: In this technique the cloth is kept between pieces of wood blocks and then the cloth is patterned only there where the wood is not there.

Itajime Shibori

References:

Techniques (2008) Available at: https://shibori.org/traditions/techniques/ (Accessed: 13 January 2017).

About Shibori (no date) Available at: http://www.michaelsilks.com/shibori_about.html (Accessed: 14 January 2017).

Mudmee and ZhaRam

Hello evryone,

On this blog I will be telling you about other tie and dye techniques namely Mudmee and ZhaRam.

Mudmee

Mudmee

Mudmee originated in Thailand and it's neighbouring region Laos. In this technique subdued coloursare used, it is normally done on a black background. This technique of mudmee uses natural dyes. Now only handfull of people continue to practice this kind of tie and dye technique.
It has a combination of shapes. The use of black dye gives an unnatura/unusual tone on the fabric.
This tie and dye technique uses mudmee silk.

ZhaRam

Zha Ram

It has a simple and ancient taste. It has a very subtle variation of colour. Its non copyable characterstic is that its pattern is naturally formed. Patterns are formed by needle, thread and skill. First the pattern is stitched and then dyed then the thread is trimmed.

References:

Culture, C. (2000) Tie-dye. Available at: http://www.chinaculturecenter.org/culture/content.php?cid=185&id=125 (Accessed: 12 January 2017).

Garrity, W. (2012) Zhoucheng: Zha-ran tie-dye. Available at: https://textiletrails.wordpress.com/2012/10/31/zhoucheng-zha-ran-tie-dye/ (Accessed: 12 January 2017).

Tie and Dye

Hello everyone,

Today I will be telling about Tie and dye .Tie and dye uses tieing, pleating, stitching, folding or twisting of fabric is a way to create patterns.

Tie and dye originated in Peru in 300-500 A.D. where circles and lines were used with bright colours and saturated primary colours are used with bold patterns. Dyes are also used of different varieties example household. fiber, reactive acid and VAT dyes.
Main tie and dye motifs.

Spiral pattern of tie and dye

Mandala pattern of tie-dye

Peace pattern of tie and dye

Well different countries developed different styles of tie and dye.

• China- ZhaRam
• Japan- Shibori
• India-Plangi or Bandhana
• Mudmee- Thailand

Bandhana

Bandhana also called bandhej, bandhani, piliya, is a tie and dye technique in which cloth is tied or is binded to give differet texture and motif. The tying process is done by hand to achieve best colours and combination. Bandhana is done mainly in Ahemdabad and Rajasthan.

This technique was carried out by carried out by Khatri community. Mostly natural colours are used like yellow, red, blue, green and black. 

References:

Bandhej (2016) BANDHEJ. Available at: http://www.bandhej.com/about-us (Accessed: 14 January 2017).

Bandhani (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bandhani (Accessed: 14 January 2017).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tie-dye

Katazome

Hello everyone,
Today i will discuss about Katazome which is also called Katagami, it is a paper stenciling technique. In which the rice paste is applied through the washi paper.

Washi is an Japanese hand made paper which is cut in to form a design.

This paper tends to be very strong, so for shaping it the knife is pulled towards the craftman for the application of the shape.This technique is used since centuries and its origin is from Japan itself. The rice paste applied over it is applied via a knife.

References:

History of surface design: Katagami & Katazome -. Available at: https://patternobserver.com/2015/01/20/history-surface-design-katagami-katazome/ (Accessed: 4 February 2017).

Collection of Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian design museum (no date) Available at: https://collection.cooperhewitt.org/videos/68764217/ (Accessed: 4 February 2017).

Ise-katagami (2016). Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ise-katagami (Accessed: 3 February 2017).

Using the Katazome dyeing technique. Available at: http://textileartscenter.com/blog/using-the-katazome-dyeing-technique/ (Accessed: 3 February 2017).

Tsutsugaki

Tsutsugaki is a rice paste resist technique. Tsutsugaki is derived from the word 'tsutsu' meaning tube and 'gaki' meaning drawing. It is a technique of indigo dyeing in which rice paste is used instead wax. It started in 1337. This technique was highly popular in 116th century. It then slowly getting declined and then nearly diapperaed around the Second World War.

Tsutsugaki made banners had a important place in Buddhist temples. Ans even in the ceremonies of birth, marriage and death. Its uses has declined. Oldest Tsutsugaki sample in existence is seen in kyogen entertainers constume containing umbrella motifs. Firstly clothes like hemp was used but it was very hard to work with it. Then they start cultivating more cotton and then it was used.

Materials and Tools

Rice paste is mainly used in tsutsugaki, which contains one part bran,one part flour and one part water. 

A cone like structure is used to put paste where ever needed.

Vat dyes or natural dyes are used.

Process

• Design is drawn on the fabric with the help of a pencil.
• Rice paste is poured in the cone thing.
• Rice paste is applied where ever needed.
• The cloth is left to dry.
• The cloth is dyed.
• The process is repeated if multiple colours are needed.
• Rice paste is removed in boiling water.
• The cloth is ready.

References:

Tsutsugaki (2016). Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsutsugaki (Accessed: 2 February 2017).

 Tsutsugaki, indigo folk fabric of Japan - Maison d’exceptions. Available at: http://www.maisondexceptions.com/en/tsutsugaki-indigo-folk-fabric-of-japan/ (Accessed: 2 February 2017).

 Minami textiles. Available at: https://minamitextiles.com/tag/tsutsugaki/ (Accessed: 3 February 2017).

Kimonoboy’s antique Japanese folk textiles. Available at: https://www.kimonoboy.com/tsutsugaki.html (Accessed: 3 February 2017).

Roketsuzome- material-tools-technique

Hello everyone,

I hope you are liking my blog. Well today I will be discussing about what materials and tools are used in Roketsuzome and how it is done.

Roketsuzome uses several different kind of material and tools.

Surizome Brush:

Surizome brushes are used to dye smaller section of the cloth.

Surikome brush:

Surikome Brush (The angular one)

Surikome brush is used to blend colours and helps to dye diagonally. It is said that it helps to go across the yard. It is the angular brush.

Jizome Brush

Jizome or hikizome is a brush that helps blending the larger section of the colour. It the the biggest brush in the photo.

Rofude\Irosashi Brush

Rofude\ Irosashi Brush

Rofude brush is used to apply wax on the fabric.This brush comes in different sizes. To give as fine detailing possible.

All the brushes used in Roketsuzome needs to be made of natural bristle or wood because synthetic brush will melt once put in hot materials like wax or hot dyes. Other than brushes Roketsuzome also uses rollers, metal stamp and acid dyes. Wax used in Rozome is beeswax and Soy wax.

Process

• The fabric is washed
• the deign is made on the fabric by charcoal or chalk.
• Wax is applied on the cloth by rofude/Irosashi brush.Then the wax is left to dry.
• Then with brushes (Hikizome/Sukizome/Surizome) the cloth is dyed.

• The process is repeated if multiple colours is needed.
• Then the cloth is suspended in boiling water for the removal of wax.
• The fabric is ready.

References:

Rozome/Roketsuzome technique. Available at: https://www.artfire.com/ext/shop/blog_post/asiansecrets/12156/batik_techniques_rozome_roketsuzome_technique (Accessed: 23 January 2017)

Japanese wax resist dyeing - Roketsuzome (no date) Available at: http://kyotokimono.livejournal.com/3223.html (Accessed: 23 January 2017).

 Roketsuzome-japanese wax resist dyeing. Available at: http://feltcafe.blogspot.in/2007/07/roketsuzome-japanese-wax-resist-dyeing.html (Accessed: 23 January 2017).

Japanese Batik

Hi everyone,
Today I am going to tell u about Japanese batik which i found a lot interesting but as I researched I received limited information on it. Well whatever information I have I will share.

Japan has introduced different ways of making batik

• Roketsuzome or Rozome (uses wax as a resist)
• Tsutsugaki (uses rice paste)
• Katagami\ katazome (uses washi paper)

Roketsuzome

Roketsuzome also called Rozome. 'Ro' meaning wax, 'ketsu' meaning resist or block out and 'zome' meaning dye. It is a form of resist dyeing in Japan. It is done since the 7th ot 8th century but due to some reasons it's practice declined. It practice revived in the 17th century. As a stamping and dye technique.

Before it was mostly done on cotton but now it is also done on silk. Before it was only done on kimono's and manuscripts and now it is done mostly everywhere like curtains, clothes, bedsheets, etc.

It uses all the colours but the clours white, indigo, black and brown are mostly used.

Indonesian Batik Motif-3

Terang Bulan Motif

Terang Bhulan Motif

Terang Bulan means moonshine. It consists of small triangles ehich comes vertically in the background.

Semen Motif

Semen Motif

It's the Sawat motif about which I wrote before. In Indonesia it is called the Semen Motif. Semen word originated from the word 'semi' meaning bloom, the motif reflects prosperity and happiness.

Nitik Motif

Nitik Motif

This motif is the combination of shapes consisting of squares, rectangle, dots,etc. It is supposed to be taken from Patola works. I found it related to the Jlamprang motif I mentioned before.

References:

Marinaelphick (2014) Parang Batik motif. Available at: https://marinaelphick.com/2014/04/17/parang-batik-motif/ (Accessed: 1 February 2017).

Winiarum (2014) Makna di Balik motif Truntum. Available at: https://rantingkemuning.wordpress.com/2014/01/06/makna-di-balik-motif-truntum/ (Accessed: 23 February 2017).

Indonesian Batik Motif-2

Hello everyone,
On this blog I will let you know about other Indonesian batik motifs.

Truntum Motif

Truntum Motif

Truntum motif is worn by the parents in their children wedding, it's a symbol that parent's can guide their children. The word 'truntum' is derived from the word 'tuntun' which means guidance.

Gringsing Motif

Gringsing Motif

The word Gringsing is derived from the word 'Gering' that means sick and 'sing' meaning not. So Gringding means not sick or against illness. This motif was also influenced by Patola clothes, which originated in India. This motif resembles the skin of the snake and is generally used in the background.

Lereng Motif

Lereng Motif

Lereng motif means a cliff. When the royal family from sakurata escaped they hid themselves in the mountain area for their safety. And then the sultan looked at the cliff and made this motif. I find this motif to be a lot similar to Parang.

References:

winiarum (2014) Makna di Balik motif Truntum. Available at: https://rantingkemuning.wordpress.com/2014/01/06/makna-di-balik-motif-truntum/ (Accessed: 23 February 2017).

Fitinline (2013) Fitinline.Com: Keunikan Makna Filosofi Batik Klasik: Motif Gringsing. Available at: https://fitinline.com/article/read/keunikan-makna-filosofi-batik-klasik-motif-gringsing/ (Accessed: 1 February 2017).

Indonesian Batik Motifs-1

Hello everyone,

I hope you are all enjoying this blog. Well, today I will be discussing about Indonesian Batik motifs.

Kawung

Kawung: It is a motif consisting of intersecting circles. . This design has appeared carved into the walls of many temples throughout Java.For many years, this pattern was reserved for the royal court of the Sultan of Jogjakarta. The circles are sometimes embellished inside with two or more small crosses or other ornaments such as intersecting lines or dots. It has been suggested that the ovals might represent flora such as the fruit of the kapok (silk cotton) tree or the aren (sugar palm).

Ceplok Motif

Ceplok: Ceplok is a general name for a whole series of geometric designs based on squares, rhombs, circles, stars, etc. Although fundamentally geometric, ceplok can also represent abstractions and stylization of flowers, buds,seeds and even animals.

Parang Motif

Parang: It has suggested meanings like knife patterns, rugged rock or broken blade. Parang usually alternated with narrower bands in a darker contrasting colour. These darker bands contain another design element, a line of lozenge shaped motifs call mlinjon. There are many variations of this basic striped pattern with its elegant sweeping lines, with over forty parang designs recorded.

References:

Marinaelphick (2014) Kawung batik motif. Available at: https://marinaelphick.com/2014/02/17/kawung-batik-motif/ (Accessed: 23 January 2017)

Fitinline (2013) Fitinline.Com: Keunikan Makna Filosofi Batik Klasik: Motif Gringsing. Available at: https://fitinline.com/article/read/keunikan-makna-filosofi-batik-klasik-motif-gringsing/ (Accessed: 1 February 2017).

Indonesian Batik Procedure

Hello everyone,

Hope you are all enjoying my blogs. Well in this blog i will be discussing about the procedure of Indonesian Batik. In Indonesia, batik is done in two ways

• By using Canting tool
• By using Cap\ Cooper Stamps

By Using Canting Tool

• The cloth is washed in water to remove extra startch.
• The design is outlined with a pencil.
• The wax is poured in the canting tool.
• The wax is applied via canting tool.
  
• The wax is left to dry.
• The fabric is then dyed.
• The process is repeated if multiple colours are needed.
• Once the cloth is dyed in all the wanted colours, it is suspended in boiling water for removal of wax.
• Batik cloth is ready.

By using Cooper Stamps

• The cloth is washed in water to remove extra startch.
• The lines are drawn so that where the clock is stamped is known.
• The wax is applied on the cooper stamp and then is stamped.
  
• The wax is left to dry.
• The fabric is then dyed.
• The process is repeated if multiple colours are needed.
• Once the cloth is dyed in all the wanted colours, it is suspended in boiling water for removal of wax.
• Batik cloth is ready.

References:

Behance (no date) Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/47738987/Indonesian-Batik (Accessed: 18 January 2017).

Indonesian Batik- Material and Tools

Hello everyone,

Today I will be discussing about different material and tools that Indonesian Batik uses. Well, as I said before Batik is a wax resist technique. It uses beeswax or paraffin as wax ;canting tool, cooper stamps (also called a cap) or brushes are used to apply wax and it is best done on cotton and silk cloth which are quite thick.

Canting tool

Cooper block stamp\ C

Canting tool: Body canting is the wax reservoir it is the place where hot wax is kept(you can take it as a refill of a pen); Beak is the place from where the wax comes out from (you can take it as a tip of the pen)and handle is of course, the place where you hold it. Canting tool was found in Java.

Wajan

Cooper block Stamp: It is made of 1.5 cm wide cooper stripsthat is bent into the shape of a motif small piece of wired is added to the stamp to give it more details. When it is properly shaped it is attached to a handle. It helps in applying wax.Firstly you have to apply wax on the stamp and then you have to stamp it on a cloth and as you can see it does a 2 hrs work in 5 mins. These stamps were found in Dutch or China.

Wajan: Wajan is a container that holds wax. Normally it is made of iron or Earthen ware. It is normally placed over a brick, charcoal or a spirit burner called 'anglo'.


Wax: Indonesian Batik  uses different types of wax. Commonly used wax are beeswax and Paraffin Wax. Resins and animal fats are supposed to be added in it. It is said that the best waxes are from the Indonesian Islands of Timor, Sumbava and Sumata. Petroleum based Paraffin wax comes in white, yellow and black colour.

 I will write about the procedure of batik in Indonesia in my next blog.

References:

Behance (no date) Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/47738987/Indonesian-Batik (Accessed: 18 January 2017).

http://www.senikraf.com/cat_batik.htm (Accessed: 18 January 2017).

Indonesian Batik

Hi everyone,

I hope you are all finding my blog informative. Today I am going to discuss about Indonesian Batik.

In October 2' 2009, Indonesian batik was designated by UNESCO,  as the Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. Since then, on every Friday citizens of Indonesia wear Batik and even they celebrate October 2 as a National Batik Day.

Batik Child Sling

The culture of Indonesia is very well related to batik. Infants are carried in batik slings which are designed with the symbols that are believed to bring child luck.
A person's rank can be determined by the pattern of batik he wears. Some deigns there are even reserved there for brides, bridegroom and even for there relatives. There they even celebrate a ceremony called Naloni Mitoni in which women wear seven layers of cloth when there child touches the Earth for the first time.

References:

Batik, the traditional fabric of Indonesia. Available at: http://www.expat.or.id/info/batik.html (Accessed: 15 January 2017).

THE HISTORY AND TECHNIQUE OF BATIK. Available at: http://www.asia-art.net/indonesian_batik.html (Accessed: 15 January 2017).

Indonesian Batiks (no date) Available at: http://www.indobatiks.com/ (Accessed: 16 January 2017).

Indian Batik Motifs-3

Priggondani Motif

Priggondani Motif

According to the local community of 'priggondani' is a combination of words: Pring, Nggan, and Ndani. 'Pring' meaning bamboo. 'Nggan' stands for place and 'Ndani' meaning improvement. Priggondani means a place where people can improve themselves.

Peacock Motif

Peacock Motif

The peacock is the sign of wealth, beauty, pride and even royalty. In India, the peacock's image is associated with rain and Lord Indra or the vehicle for Lord Maruga. It is the national bird of India. Even the peacock's of feather was worn by Lord Krishna.

Jlamprang Motif

Jlamprang Motif

This pattern is taken from Indian Patola work. It consists of geometrical shapes and star shapes are used as twig ends rectangular. The motif was influenced by the Islam community which avoids showing animals and human beings in the real form. But then it was also said that this motif was inspired by Lord Shiva.

In the Hindu'sit is beleived that there is a Syaiwapakhra (arrow a weapong Lord Shiva used) which uses a chakra symbol as arrows. It is also a meditating icone of Lord Shiva.

References:

mechtadeera (2015) Jlamprang , motif batik khas Pekalongan. Available at: https://mechtadeera.wordpress.com/2015/08/25/jlamprang-motif-batik-khas-pekalongan/ (Accessed: 20 January 2017).

Makna dan Filosofi motif Batik Meru. Available at: http://senirupaterapanbatikindonesia.blogspot.in/2013/12/makna-dan-filosofi-motif-batik-meru.html (Accessed: 21 January 2017).